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« Beyond Constriction: Empowered Femininity within Chitè’s Lingerie Designs » – Rencontre avec Fabiola Adamo (11/06/2024)

Doctorante à l’université de Naples “L’Orientale”, Fabiola Adamo travaille sur un projet de recherche intitulé “The Political Potentials of Glamour: The Example of Underwear”. Dans ce projet, elle explore le glamour en tant qu’outil d’autonomisation dans le discours féministe et se concentre sur l’exposition de vêtements de lingerie. Des thèmes similaires ont déjà été explorés dans son mémoire de master intitulé “Between Glamour and Feminism: Brigitte and Missy Magazine: a Comparison of Two German Female Magazines”.

Pour cette huitième (et dernière) séance, nous aurons le plaisir d’accueillir  Fabiola Adamo, doctorante à l’Università degli Studi di Napoli “L’Orientale”, qui présentera son travail de recherche intitulé “Beyond Constriction : Empowered Femininity within Chitè’s Lingerie Designs”. Veuillez trouver ci-dessous un aperçu de la séance :

The discourse surrounding specific female undergarments, particularly corsets, bras and girdles, has attracted considerable attention, often analyzed within Foucauldian frameworks as manifestations of “body technologies” perpetuating heteronormative feminine norms and sexuality (Bordo, 1993). Prominent within feminist movements, notably during the so-called “second wave”, this discourse has witnessed acts of resistance against such garments, exemplified by events like the symbolic “freedom trash can” demonstration against the Miss America protest in Atlantic City in 1968. At the core of the controversy lies the dual functionality of these undergarments, capable of potentially conforming the body to desired standards and potentially restricting movement.

Nevertheless, alternative perspectives have emerged, for example suggesting that an item like the corset can signify wearer agency rather than mere instruments of subjugation and passivity  (Kunzle, 1982; Steele, 2001). Furthermore, scholars have emphasized the potential for pleasurable experiences in the sensation of constriction. Within feminist discourse, the “sex wars” have also revealed divergent views on sexuality, with sex-positive feminists advocating for sexual exploration as a form of empowerment, thereby influencing attitudes toward sensual and provocative attire.

Amidst this multifaceted landscape, various viewpoints coexist regarding the empowering potential of clothing and lingerie. This study seeks to elucidate the perspectives of the creative team behind an independent company named “Chitè”, based in Milan, Italy, which positions itself as an “empowering” and “inclusive” lingerie brand. To conduct the following analysis, on-site ethnography was employed, including participant observation and interviews with the designers, model-makers, and the CEOs. As the individuals responsible for the creative direction, this exchange aims to unveil Chitè’s conceptualization of empowered femininity as reflected in its design choices.

The findings reveal that the creative team diverges from the over-sexualization and constriction of the body, instead advocating for a portrayal of a “classy”, “natural”, and “free” woman. The interviews shed light on the designs the creative team avoids and, conversely, what design choices are believed to best convey this ideal of femininity.

La rencontre se déroulera le mardi 11 juin 2024 en ligne, entre 18h et 20h. Si vous souhaitez vous inscrire, merci d’envoyer un mail (sartoria.contact@gmail.com) ou un DM à @sartoria_association


OpenEdition vous propose de citer ce billet de la manière suivante :
Sartoria (28 mai 2024). « Beyond Constriction: Empowered Femininity within Chitè’s Lingerie Designs » – Rencontre avec Fabiola Adamo (11/06/2024). Sartoria. Consulté le 6 novembre 2024 à l’adresse https://doi.org/10.58079/11qh9


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